Majete Wildlife Reserve: Malawi’s Premier Big Five Safari Destination

Majete Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s major ‘Big Five’ reserve and one of its top wildlife destinations. Located in south-western Malawi, approximately 40 miles from Blantyre and three hours from Lake Malawi, Majete is one of the big success stories in African conservation–an unlikely story of resurgence and restoration.

2023 marks 20 years since African Parks signed an agreement with the Malawian government to take over the management of the reserve. Prior to this agreement, Majete was neglected and, after decades of poaching, nearly all the wildlife had been hunted out-elephants, rhinos, lions, buffalo, even warthog were gone, and only a few antelope remained. Trees were being felled for charcoal, there were only a handful of game scouts, and not one tourist had visited the park in three years. The once beautiful Majete was threatened with death.

Jump forward to 2023 and intensive conservation work has regenerated Majete. Africa Parks have reintroduced rhinos, elephants, lions, giraffes, cheetahs, and wild dogs–in total more than 2,500 animals have been reintroduced. The animals have thrived and are breeding well, current estimates put the total mammal population at over 11,000. By 2017, so successful had the reintroductions been, that surplus elephants and other animals were able to be moved to help repopulate Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, 200 miles away.

Majete has come a long way in the past two decades. Hard work has turned the reserve into the only official Big 5 Game Park in Malawi (Big 7 if you include the wild dogs and cheetah!). Not one rhino or elephant has been poached since they were reintroduced, and Majete is completely transformed. This once hopeless reserve is now one of Malawi’s best game parks offering some wonderful safari experiences and putting the country on the map as a great wildlife destination.

Visitors to Majete can look forward to some amazing wildlife experiences, including boat safaris on the magnificent Shire River, as well as the usual safaris by vehicle and on foot. Go in search of Majete’s magnificent wildlife on an adventurous safari! Most of the wildlife in Majete has been reintroduced, including large numbers of elephant, buffalo, zebra, sable antelope, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, nyala and waterbuck. Several lions and black rhinos have also been brought in, as well as wild dog and giraffe. The reserve also boasts the largest variety of antelope species in the country, including greater kudu. The 2,000 or so buffalo move in huge herds, and the Shire River teems with hippos.

Majete is home to over 300 different species of birds, including four species of vultures and numerous Bateleur Eagles. Other bird highlights include the Boulder Chat, Livingstone’s Flycatcher, Boehm’s Bee-eater, Cuckoo Hawk, Pel’s Fishing Owl and Rock Pratincole. There’s plenty of variety to keep even the keenest of birders entertained.   

1. Majete is an incredible conservation success story–20 years ago, it was nearly devoid of wildlife, but now it is Malawi’s premier Big Five destination with thriving animal populations and plentiful birdlife.

2. It is the only reserve in Malawi where Giraffe and African Wild Dog can be seen.

3. Majete carries the highest concentration of predators in Malawi. These include Hyena, Cheetah, Leopard and Lion.

4. Situated only an hour and a half from Blantyre, this is the perfect reserve to visit in Malawi.

5. All funds generated in Majete contribute towards the management of the reserve. African Parks is a non-profit organisation-your contribution helps sustain this incredible story of hope and revival.

Although Majete is open all year round, weather conditions vary considerably depending on the season. The best months for wildlife viewing are July-October, the Dry season, when animals are drawn to the river and waterholes. It can however be very hot in October, which might be difficult to bear. The scenery is lush and green in the Wet season months, November-April, but animals tend to be harder to find and the roads become difficult to navigate.

For those who want to drive to the reserve, vehicles are available for hire in Blantyre. The last 12 miles is an all-season dirt road and can be driven throughout the year, but a 4×4 vehicle is recommended during the wet months. The journey takes about an hour and a half. For those who’d rather fly, Majete has an airstrip, and charters can be booked with local providers.

<a href=" https://www.africanparks.org/thawale-camp "> Thawale Camp</a> is a classic tented camp in a prime location. The lodge is set on the edge of a bustling waterhole that regularly attracts a wide variety of wildlife, including elephants and numerous antelope. Situated within the reserve boundaries, the lodge is completely unfenced, giving guests a real experience in the natural surroundings. There is a main lounge and dining area and 6 tented chalets for accommodation (including 2 family chalets). There is also a bio-swimming pool on site for guests’ use. Note the lodge does not accommodate children under 3 and children must be supervised at all times.

Located within the reserved, the <a href=" https://www.africanparks.org/the-parks/majete/visit-the-park/community-campsite "> Game Capture Community Campsite</a> is set under a grove of trees, for shade and cooler temperatures. Accommodating up to 25 in designated tent sites, as well as up to 8 guests in shelters, this is a great base from which to explore the reserve. The site is open allowing wildlife to move freely through camp, but it does however have a short fence around it to stop elephants surrounding your tent.   

<a href=" https://www.africanparks.org/the-parks/majete/visit-the-park/community-campsite "> The Research Campsite</a> is located next to the Mwembezi entrance gate. This camp is completely unfenced. The camp has 4 tented rooms, each with two single beds and en-suite bathrooms with hot water. There is a shared kitchen, seating area, firepit and BBQ. Meals, drinks and activities are not included, but can be booked at reception. Reservations can only be made 14 days in advance.

<a href=" https://www.robinpopesafaris.net/camps-lodges/mkulumadzi-lodge/ "> Mkulumadzi Lodge,</a> run by Robin Pope Safaris and in its own private concession area, has 8 beautiful chalets located on the banks of the Shire River and offers real luxury in a fantastic setting. All ages are welcome and the lodge is open yearly from 16 March-9 Jan.

Image Credits: Wildlife by Gael RVW, Thwale Camp African Parks, Robin Pope Safaris

Majete Wildlife Reserve

Malawi’s Marvelous Majete | A Conservation Success Story

Discover the Pinnacle of Luxury Travel with Rovos Rail

The minute we arrived at the Victoria Falls Hotel, we knew we were in for a treat. Our bags were labelled and whisked away to the wood-panelled deluxe suite that would be ours on the journey to Pretoria. We were ushered into a private lounge area at the hotel, and sparkling wine and canapés were offered. Once all our fellow passengers were assembled, comfortably seated around the room, we were welcomed by Rohan Vos, the man who started the family-owned Rovos Rail in 1989, developing it into what it is today – one of the world’s best and most luxurious trains; The Pride of Africa.

Introductions done, we’re ushered across the road to the waiting locomotive, where local musicians sing and dance as we prepare to board. Stepping off the grey concrete platform and onto a red carpet, we knew this would be a memorable trip. With more than 30 staff on board, from chefs to bartenders, wait staff, security guards, housekeepers, train drivers, technicians, and a jovial train manager, Hennie, to oversee them all, this is a railway trip in a league of its own.

This was not our first time on Rovos Rail, nor the first time we’d met Mr Vos or Hennie – we felt pretty at home. Our last journey had been in South Africa, from Cape Town to Pretoria. This time, we were set to travel, for four days and three nights, all the way through Zimbabwe from Victoria Falls to South Africa’s administrative capital, Pretoria, stopping at a couple of special spots along the way. As the train chugs out of the station, our journey begins. 

Revel in Rovos Rail’s Distinctive Style and History

Since its establishment in 1989, Rovos Rail has earned an international reputation as a truly world-class travel experience. The trains, which can be hauled by diesel or electric locomotives at various stages of the journey, carry a maximum of 72 passengers in 36 superbly appointed suites. The beautifully restored carriages combine luxury travel with the chance to experience living history. Restaurant cars, observation carriages, and sleeping compartments are all restored originals from a bygone era of rail travel, with vintage wood-panelled coaches, soft velvet upholstery and period fittings designed for pioneering travellers from a simpler, more elegant age of African exploration. Maintaining the spirit of a bygone era, there’s no Wi-Fi, radios, newspapers or television sets on board – reviving the art of conversation.

The Start of Reviving the Art of Conversation

Once we’d all settled in our stunning suites, unpacked our bags, drunk yet another glass of champagne and freshened up, we made our way to the bar to acquaint ourselves with our fellow travellers. The sunset glistens through the huge glass windows that look out to the observation car. Ice tinkles in glasses, and there’s a hum of conversation as everyone gets to know one another. Dinner time is fast approaching.

Guests are summoned to dine by a mini-xylophone, and dressing for dinner is expected – men are required to dress in a jacket and tie and ladies in cocktail or evening dresses. This ceremonial ‘dressing for dinner’ makes the whole experience feel special, and the food is certainly worth the effort. A four-course meal is served in the cherry-panelled, teakwood-pillared restaurant car, with cut-crystal wine glasses, fine china, starched linen napkins, silver cutlery and seamless service.

Given the limited space of a train kitchen car, achieving a standard that rivals that of fine restaurants is a challenge when catering for a full complement of guests. There is an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. Traditional dishes such as game meat are a speciality, and there’s a selection of fine wines from some of South Africa’s most renowned estates to complement the menu. Considerable thought and meticulous planning go into devising the menus, and an enthusiastic team of chefs ensures that all the guests enjoy the indulgence. A full stomach, wine, liqueur and the soporific rhythm of the train definitely all help lull you to sleep when you retire to your compartment after dinner.   

When it comes to travel, speed and convenience are usually priorities. When we travel, especially by plane, we often forget to enjoy the journey. Every once in a while, it’s important to slow down a little and travel at a more leisurely pace and in a more luxurious fashion. A trip on Rovos Rail gives you precisely that – fine food, fine wine, fantastic accommodation, and fabulous excursions from the train.

Wildlife Encounters in Hwange National Park

We headed south, and the next day, our first stop was Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe’s largest national park, covering an impressive 14,650km². The park was named after a local chief. It was once the royal hunting ground for the king of the Ndebele tribe before being designated a National Park in 1929. Teeming with wildlife, Hwange is home to the world’s largest population of elephants (40,000) as well as a vast variety of other wildlife. The train stops here and waits for some hours, allowing the passengers a morning spent exploring the park on guided game drives, seeing elephants – of course –  but also giraffes, buffalo, sable, lions and more. Back in time for lunch onboard, we pushed on.   

Explore UNESCO Heritage at Matobo National Park

Travelling on the following morning, the train stops again for passengers to alight. This time, we visit Matobo National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the oldest parks in Zimbabwe and home to both black and white rhinos, and a fantastic collection of ancient rock art dating back at least 13,000 years. The Matopos Hills also boasts some of the most dramatic scenery in Zimbabwe, with giant balancing rock formations on a colossal granite plateau. It is here, on the peak of the Malindidzimu (‘Hill of Spirits’), that we visit the gravestone of Cecil John Rhodes, British mining magnate, politician, founder of diamond company de Beers, and the original driving force behind the building of the Victoria Falls bridge we’d been able to see from the Victoria Falls hotel a few days earlier.

The South African Journey Blends Convenience with Opulence

Powering on, we chart a course through Zimbabwe before finally crossing the border at Beitbridge into South Africa. The bridge crosses the Limpopo River, which forms the border between the two countries and is named after Alfred Beit, co-founder of De Beers diamond mining and associate of the aforementioned Cecil Rhodes.

On we go to Pretoria, the executive capital of South Africa and known for its stunning, purple-flowering jacaranda trees. With a hiss and a screech, the locomotive, complete with suites, lounges and dining cars, ground to a halt. We’ve reached the end of the line, and our journey is done.

Rovos Rail has a style all of its own. The spacious suites, some of the biggest train suites in the world, each accommodate two people and offer passengers the opportunity to travel in privacy, comfort and luxury. The rebuilt sleeper coaches, all with ensuite bathrooms, combine original Edwardian features and fittings with all the modern amenities you would expect from a 5-star stay. You have a dedicated host/ess at your call, available at all times and around-the-clock room service. Not to mention the decadent experience of lying in bed and watching the scenery slide past your window without exerting any effort whatsoever!

The Forgotten Luxury of Train Travel Revealed

Rail is one of the most indulgent and comfortable ways to travel – with a spacious suite all to yourself, you can pass the days relaxing or mingling with fellow passengers while the beauty of Southern Africa’s scenic landscapes passes by the window. This extravagant railway has been travelling throughout Africa for over thirty years. It offers one of the world’s most luxurious train travel experiences, combining the golden age of rail travel with modern conveniences and allowing you to explore Africa in all the luxury of a bygone era. If you fancy stepping back in time but in the utmost style, travelling across Africa’s vast plains with Rovos Rail is the journey for you.

When it comes to travel, convenience and efficiency are usually priorities. Every once in a while, you crave something leisurely and luxurious, an old-world mode of exploration that allows you to take in the sights more indulgently, and a trip on South Africa’s Rovos Rail gives you exactly that.

rovos rail

Rovos Rail’s Luxury Journey through Africa

Remembering Leopards: An Inspiring Conservation Journey

Empowering Conservation Through Photography

Margot Raggett MBE gave up a career as CEO of a London PR company and came to Africa to follow her love of wildlife photography. Her plans changed when she was in Kenya, in 2014, and came across the carcass of a poached elephant. Deeply affected by this, Margot was determined to do something about it. She spent months persuading some of the world’s best wildlife photographers to donate photographs she could include in what she planned would be “the most beautiful book on a species ever seen”, the sale of which would raise funds for elephant conservation. The book, Remembering Elephants, was launched in 2016. At the time, Margot thought the book would be a one-off, but after the fantastic success of Remembering Elephants, Margot was inspired to push on and Remembering Wildlife became the collective name for the series of hardback coffee table books, with a new one produced every year. After Elephants, next came Remembering Rhinos, followed by Great Apes, Lions, Cheetahs, African Wild Dogs and then Bears.

Margot Raggett on Remembering Lions printing press

This year’s book, Remembering Leopards, focuses on these magnificent big cats, that have been listed as vulnerable by the IUCN since 1986. Margot believes that showcasing beautiful images of these big cats will raise awareness of their plight and capture the public’s attention. “We need people to see what we might lose if conservation efforts aren’t successful,” she says, “photography is a great way to do that.”

Image Credit: Vladimir Cech Jnr |  Indian leopard (Panthera pardus fusca) III

There are eight species of leopard – African, Amur, Arabian, Indian, Indochinese, Javan, Sri Lankan and Persian. Leopards are the most versatile and adaptable of the big cats, but despite this adaptability, their global population and distribution is in decline. Leopards have long been hunted for their golden fur as well as for their claws, whiskers, and tails. In addition, although they are widely distributed across Africa and Asia, habitat fragmentation and loss has seen their range reduced by 31% worldwide in the past three generations (about 22 years). The commercialized bushmeat trade has caused an estimated 59% decline in their prey populations across large parts of the African savanna. And human-wildlife conflicts have seen retaliatory killings by farmers or even attempts to exterminate them to prevent livestock deaths.

Image Credit: Sebastian Kennerknecht | Sunda Clouded Leopard Malaysia

Remembering Leopards: A Collective Effort

Over 50 of the world’s top wildlife photographers have contributed to Remembering Leopards and the book is a collection of 80 of their stunning colour images. This year’s cover image was taken by <a href=" https://www.markdumbleton.com/ "> Mark Dumbleton.</a> Margot says, “With their sheer beauty, aloofness and agility, leopards are coveted by photographers and safari-goers alike – there is something mesmerising about them that wins hearts the world over. And yet, because of human actions, the global leopard population and distribution is in decline and Leopards have vanished from at least 40% of their historic range in Africa and over 50% of their historic range in Asia. They are now believed to be extinct in 23 of their 85 original range countries. In addition to the threat of climate change and human-wildlife conflict, leopards also fall victim to the illegal wildlife trade – they are highly prized for their beautiful skin, as well as bones, teeth, and claws. I’m grateful to all the photographers who have willingly donated their work to this book and to raise awareness and funds. It is only through working together that we can win.”

Not all of the photographers featured are well-known. Remembering Wildlife ran a photographic competition where around 3,500 images were submitted, from which 20 were chosen to add to the book. Friend and photographer <a href=" https://www.janeaddey.co.uk/ "> Jany Addey </a> from the UK was one of these competition winners, with her photo Leopard Leaps, and says “For me, it is a privilege to be part of such an amazing project. Leopards are my favourite animal and I love to photograph their beauty but also their movement and behaviour. To have one of my photos in this fundraising book was a photographic highlight which also helps to raise money for conservation”.

 <a href=" https://www.c4photosafaris.com/guides-detail.asp?G_ID=43 "> Jonathan Scott, </a> one of the photographers who contributed to the book, says that over the years, leopards have suffered greatly because of demand for their pelts. “The leopard’s exquisite beauty has cost it dearly,” he says. “In the 1960s and 70s, as many as 50,000 leopards were believed to be killed each year in Africa to satisfy the fashion industry’s insatiable appetite for spotted cat skin garments.”

The first donation from Remembering Leopards has already been made, to the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) in Afghanistan. WCS has been working to protect snow leopards since 2006, but because of the current political situation in Afghanistan, they’d recently lost the bulk of their funding. Remembering Wildlife has given them an emergency grant to both carry on and to fund the employment of eco-guards from local communities in Wakhan National Park.

In the foreword for Remembering Leopards, Dr Luke Hunter, Executive Director of <a href=" https://www.wcs.org/our-work/wildlife/big-cats?gad_source=1&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwhfipBhCqARIsAH9msbncpzFBjJjI698GHscJZqtFeu_0x-IEtGhGlJC-_yyzFVGwn0qQnikaApL3EALw_wcB43 "> Big Cats Program, Wildlife Conservation Society, </a> says something that’s very apt as a closing thought… “Remembering Leopards reminds us of what is at stake. When you look upon the glorious cats on these pages, be assured that it is not too late to save them. Don’t let Remembering Leopards become an epitaph.”

To find out more about Remembering Wildlife and their projects visit the website link below. Each book costs £49.50 GBP (approximately $60 USD) and copies can be ordered at <a href=" https://rememberingwildlife.com/    "> www.rememberingwildlife.com </a> 

Article Cover Image: Ben Cranke | African Leopard

remembering leopards

Remembering Leopards | An Inspiring Conservation Journey

KAZA: Southern Africa’s Wildlife Conservation Marvel

Southern Africa is home to some of the world’s most incredible wildlife. Elephants, cheetahs, wild dogs, leopards, lions, rhinos, giraffes and so much more. In 2011 five African countries recognised the value of protecting these animals and the areas they lived in, for the good of the wildlife, but also to benefit communities that rely on tourism as a source of income. Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe banded together to establish the Kavango Zambezi Trans-frontier Conservation Area or KAZA, a place where borders were porous and the movement of wildlife was encouraged, a unique collaboration designed to conserve these wild expanses, protect wildlife, promote tourism, and improve the well-being of local communities. At 520,000km² this is the largest wildlife conservation area in the world. It’s enormous – larger than Germany and Austria combined, roughly the size of France, and nearly twice as large as the United Kingdom.

KAZA includes 36 protected areas, game reserves, forest reserves, game management areas, communal lands, and conservation and tourism concessions. Some of the jewels in the crown of this spectacular array of protected areas are the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls, a World Heritage Site and one of the seven natural wonders of the world, Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park, and the Zambezi River itself and the people and wildlife that live along its banks. KAZA is also home to the greatest concentration of free-roaming elephants anywhere.

Travelling to some of the many fabulous destinations within the KAZA area promotes conservation, and puts money directly into the local communities, all with the added bonus of giving you some truly amazing experiences.

Hwange National Park, with a size of 14,650km², is Zimbabwe’s largest National Park and one of the world’s last great Elephant sanctuaries. Hwange is known for some of the densest concentrations of wildlife in Africa and has more animals and a greater variety of species, 107, than any other park in the country.

In terms of wildlife conservation, Hwange is vital. Not only because the elephant population is one of the largest in Africa, nor for its huge herds of buffalo and packs of wild dogs, or its well-deserved reputation for predator sightings, but because the park is a key component of the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA)  

<a href=" https://imvelosafarilodges.com/ "> Imvelo Safaris </a> offer four special camps in and around Hwange National Park. Small intimate camps that not only offer the usual array of game drives, night drives and safari walks, but also gives guests the opportunity to interact with local communities. Imvelo aims to help the local people by ensuring that they benefit directly from the visitors to the camps.

In a beautiful forest adjacent to Hwange National Park’s Ngamo Plains is <a href=" https://imvelosafarilodges.com/camelthorn-lodge/ "> Camelthorn Lodge. </a> The lodge was built by the community on community land and is one of the largest community-based tourism projects in Zimbabwe. An ancient Camelthorn tree is at the centre of the property, surrounded by the main lodge and eight villas. There are two particular highlights when visiting Camelthorn, one is their rhino sanctuary and another is visits to the local community.

Imvelo have successfully reintroduced white rhino back to Hwange, after an absence of 15 years. The project, Community Rhino Conservation Initiative, is unique in that where most rhinos in the world are held in protected National Parks or in private hands, these rhinos have been brought to a small sanctuary on community-owned land that was voluntarily donated by villages located near the southern boundary of Hwange National Park. Visitors here can spend time on foot with these rhinos and the well-trained Cobra Rangers, community scouts, who guard the rhinos 24/7. Guests can also experience glimpses of local village life, including visits to the nearby school and the local clinic, both of which benefit from Imvelo’s tourism-driven philanthropy.

The spectacular Victoria Falls is the world’s greatest sheet of falling water and is located midway along the course of the Zambezi River, which forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. At 5,604t wide and with a drop of 355ft, this is the largest uninterrupted curtain of falling water in the world.

The quintessential place to stay when visiting the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe is <a href=" https://www.victoriafallshotel.com/ "> The Victoria Falls Hotel </a> Zimbabwe’s grandest and oldest luxury hotel. Set in lush, tropical gardens overlooking the magnificent falls, the hotel offers authentic Edwardian luxury, within walking distance of The Victoria Falls rainforest, and is in an ideal location for river cruises, helicopter tours and safaris.

If you are looking to add a conservation element to your Victoria Falls visit, drop in at the <a href=" https://vicfallswildlifetrust.org/ "> Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust </a> for a 1-hour tour of their Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre and Laboratory facilities. Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust are called in cases where wildlife have been injured or orphaned, due to human interference or conflict. They assist by taking care of the animal until it’s recovered and ready to be released back into the wild.

In 2012 elders of the local community decided their 1,800km² of their communal land should be developed as a wildlife conservancy, allowing for the conservation of the area as well as promoting income generation through tourism. In 2013, supported by Peace Parks, a wildlife sanctuary measuring 200km² was established in part of the Simalaha Conservancy. The first wildlife translocations took place in 2013 and since then, more than 3,000 animals have been rewilded there, including eland, sable, waterbuck, roan, buffalo and giraffe.

The best way to experience the conservancy is with <a href=" https://www.zambianhorsebacksafaris.com/ "> Zambia Horseback Safaris </a> which runs riding safaris in Simalaha. Home to 16 large mammal species, but no large predators, the area offers great horseback safari adventures, suitable for any level of horse rider. For experienced riders, the terrain is perfect for long canters and wildlife sightings from horseback. It’s also great for families or those who want to experience a horse safari for the first time.

Park Fees are paid to the Simalaha Conservancy Trust and in addition, the local communities benefit from training and employment, not to mention that by putting money directly into the community they are seeing the benefits of protecting the land and the wildlife on it.

Livingstone is a hub for visitors to the Victoria Falls, otherwise known as the Mosi-oa-Tunya. The proximity to the Zambezi River and the spectacular falls makes Livingstone a hub for visitors from all over the world. 10km from the falls, Livingstone is quieter and less ‘touristy’ than Victoria Falls Town in Zimbabwe. Aside from its status as the ‘tourist capital’ of Zambia, Livingstone is also known for its range of adrenaline adventure activities.

Devil’s Pool, adjacent to the famous Livingstone Island, is situated right on the edge of the falls. Visitors to <a href=" https://greensafaris.com/livingstone-island.php "> Livingstone Island </a> can swim right to the edge of the falls if they are feeling brave, though you do need to be relatively fit, steady on your feet, and a confident swimmer.

When your heart rate has recovered from all the action activities in Livingstone, it could be time to look at one of the local conservation initiatives. Local non-profit <a href=" https://www.facebook.com/ConservationAndTourismSociety/ "> CATS (Conservation &amp; Tourism Society) </a> focuses on bridging the gap between local communities and local wildlife. Their team of 8 volunteers conduct conservation, wildlife and environmental education at a grassroots level. Livingstone has seen an increasing number of human-wildlife conflict issues as the town has expanded into traditional wildlife areas, and CATS has developed a roadshow to sensitise people on elephant behaviour and to promote safe cohabitation with wildlife.

And at the end of the day, just upstream of the falls is the lovely <a href=" https://www.radissonhotels.com/en-us/hotels/radisson-blu-resort-mosi-oa-tunya?cid=a:se+b:gmb+c:emea+i:local+e:rdb+d:mea+h:ZMLIVMTL "> Radisson Blu Resort Mosi-oa-Tunya. </a> The hotel’s rooms have private balconies or patios overlooking the river and you can pamper yourself with a visit to the spa, a swim in one of the 2 outdoor swimming pools, a sunset cruise, or just relax in one of the resort’s bars or restaurants.

KAZA’s diverse landscapes offer travellers an incredible opportunity to experience the natural world while contributing positively to local communities and wildlife conservation. By choosing responsible and sustainable travel, such as supporting eco-friendly accommodations, engaging in community-based tourism, and respecting wildlife habitats, travellers can leave a positive footprint and ensure that the magic of Africa’s landscapes and the welfare of its people and wildlife remains for generations to come.

kaza visa

KAZA | Africa’s Enormous Conservation Marvel

Who doesn’t like rainbows? Victoria Falls is one of the most spectacular natural wonders on the planet, but its beauty isn’t limited to the views of the falls themselves. Endless rainbows, optical phenomenon, caused by the reflection, refraction and dispersion of light in the water droplets of the spray, seem to be everywhere you look at the Falls, somehow adding an extra layer of magic to an already mesmerizing destination. Whether you’re a nature lover, a photographer, or simply someone who appreciates nature’s beauty, seeing the rainbows at Vic Falls are a definite for your bucket list.

While daytime rainbows are a common sight at Victoria Falls, lunar rainbows are a much rarer occurrence. Also known as ‘moonbows’, lunar rainbows are rainbows formed by the light of the moon rather than the sun. This creates a much fainter and more elusive rainbow and one that can only be seen under very specific conditions. The Victoria Falls is the only place in Africa, and one of only a handful of places in the world, where the incredible natural phenomenon can be seen – something surprisingly few people who visit the Victoria Falls seem to know!

To see a lunar rainbow at Victoria Falls, you’ll need to be in the right place, at the right time. The best time to see a lunar rainbow is during a full moon, when the moon is at its brightest and the sky is clear. You’ll also need to be at the Falls at night, as lunar rainbows are only visible in the dark.

The first mention of a ‘moonbow’ was made way back in 350 BC, by the famous Greek philosopher Aristotle. Benjamin Franklin bagged a sighting or two, as did Mark Twain and 19th century mountaineer John Muir. The hunt for the elusive ‘moonbow’ has long been a quest for hikers, insomniac seamen and intrepid photo buffs. In the past, seeing one of these night time rainbows was dictated mostly by chance. No longer. At Victoria Falls, the moon’s light refracts through the mist of the falls, creating a breathtaking and otherworldly sight in the night sky for all to see.

A lunar rainbow, much like a solar rainbow, is an optical phenomenon caused by the refraction, or bending, of light through water droplets in the air. When the light from the moon passes through these droplets, it splits into the individual colours of the spectrum, just as it does with a solar rainbow. However, unlike their daytime counterparts and due to the dinner light of the moon, lunar rainbows are more rare and less vivid. In fact, the colours of a lunar rainbow can sometimes be too dim to be detected by our eyes’ colour-detecting cells, resulting in a ghostly white appearance (especially the older you get!).

The conditions for witnessing a lunar rainbow are quite specific. Lunar rainbows are only visible when the moon is full, or nearly full, and the sky is clear with minimal cloud cover. The best places to see lunar rainbows are where there are waterfalls, mist, or any other falling water.

In order to see lunar rainbows clearly, it’s essential to be in areas with very little light pollution. Consequently, the best places to see them are usually remote locations.

Lunar rainbows are only be found in a handful of places around the world, including Wallaman Falls (Australia), Skogafoss Waterfall (Iceland), Yosemite Falls (USA), Kihei Falls (USA), Cumberland Falls (USA), and Victoria Falls. In fact, there are only two places on Earth where lunar rainbows can be seen consistently and with relative ease: Cumberland Falls in Kentucky, USA and the Victoria Falls, on the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe. For three days during every month, when the conditions are right, moonbows light up the night sky at the Victoria Falls.

If you want to witness the magical phenomenon of a lunar rainbow at Victoria Falls, plan your visit during the Zambezi’s high-water season, February – August. The absolute best time to see this amazing spectacle April – July, when water flow is at its peak, and the moon is bright and consistent. It is also advisable to check the weather forecast and plan your visit on a clear night to increase your chances of success. Keep in mind that after July, the cool dry season sets in, reducing waterflow/spray and increasing wind speeds, making it difficult to witness a lunar rainbow. 

The best viewpoint to see a lunar rainbow at Victoria Falls is in Zambia, along the Eastern Cataract. If you’re visiting from June to August, the view from the Eastern Cataract can’t be beaten. On the Zimbabwean side you’re a bit more limited for options, due to the narrowness of the gorge in places. In Zimbabwe, the best spot to view the lunar rainbow is at viewpoint 7 (sometimes referred to as Cataract Island viewpoint) looking west towards Devils Cataract.

If you’re travelling with a group, consider taking a guided tour of the Falls. This will include pick-up and drop-off from your hotel as well as the entrance fee, and once you’re inside your guide will be able to take you to the best view points.

Remember to keep you voice low and your flashlight off! There’s no need for a flashlight, the moonlight is more than sufficient. It’s also irritating to other when you flash your light on them when they are trying to enjoy the view, and doing so impairs their night vision. Remember that you’re on the edge of a large chasm, so don’t overdo it on the beers and wine, you don’t want to go tumbling over the edge!

The entrance to the Falls, on both the Zambian and Zimbabwean sides, is open on the night of a full moon, as well as the night before and night after – but note that if the weather is too cloudy, the gates will not open, and there will be no advance notice of this. Also bear in mind that lunar rainbows are only visible during the full moon the high-water season.

Incidentally, the lunar rainbow can also be viewed from the Victoria Falls bridge.

The human eye finds it difficult to discern the colours in a lunar rainbow because the moonlight is usually too faint for the eye’s colour receptors, so if your expectations of a bright rainbow are too high, you might be disappointed. But good news, the colours of the lunar rainbow show up clearly in photos taken with a long exposure. So, ditch the flash and try a shutter speed of 10 seconds and ISO 800 (there are phone apps that let you manipulate shutter speed). A tripod or bean bag set-up can be useful for shaky hands, but you can also balance your phone or camera on your knee or some other stable surface.

Oscar Wilde might once have said “When it rains look for rainbows, when it’s dark look for stars.”  But at Victoria Falls, with a lunar rainbow, you can have both – rainbows and stars. If you’re looking for a unique experience in Africa, then the Victoria Falls lunar rainbow is definitely for you.

Image Credits: 1. Tongabezi, 2. Tongabezi , 3. Star Trail 4. Wild Horizons, 5. Wild Horizons

lunar rainbow

Chasing Rainbows in Victoria Falls

“Creeping with awe to the verge, I peered down into a large rent which had been made from bank to bank of the broad Zambezi, and saw that a stream of a thousand yards broad leaped down a hundred feet and then became suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen to twenty yards….the most wonderful sight I had witnessed in Africa.” Although David Livingstone wrote those words in 1855, with a description like that, it is not hard to see why the Victoria Falls is one of the most spectacular natural sites on the planet, and still continues to delight and capture the imagination of travellers.

The Victoria Falls is the result of thousands of years of erosion. The Zambezi River, flowing across a basalt plateau, in ancient times found cracks in the basalt that were filled with sandstone, and started wearing away the softer rock, eventually creating a series of magnificent and dramatic gorges. In fact, the Victoria Falls have been gradually receding for over 100,000 years!  This process of erosion has been repeated over and over again, and the zigzagging gorges downstream of the current falls represent the formation and abandonment of seven previous waterfalls. Today the Zambezi crashes over a wide cliff, plunging down 108 metres into a powerful whirlpool, forming the greatest curtain of falling water on the planet, and transforming the placid river into a ferocious torrent. In the height of the rainy season more than five hundred million cubic metres of water a minute surge over the edge of the almost 2km wide falls and plummet into the gorge below… columns of spray can be seen from miles away, hence its local name, Mosi-oa-Tunya, “the smoke that thunders”.

Aside from the lure of the Victoria Falls themselves, there are numerous activities to keep even the most ardent adventure seeker busy…

Jumping off the Victoria Falls Bridge is one of the ultimate adrenaline activities. This is the highest commercial bridge jump in the world and in the most spectacular setting. I’ve never been brave enough to throw myself off the bridge, but my husband and sons have. I opted for the more sedate zip line, which starts on the Zambian side of the bridge and ends on the Zimbabwean side. Shearwater offers bungee, bridge swing and zip lining off the iconic bridge and even if you’re not brave enough to jump yourself, it is worth stopping to watch those who are, as they throw themselves into the abyss.

White Water Rafting on the Zambezi River, downstream of the Victoria Falls is one the most exciting, electrifying and adrenaline-fuelled experiences you are likely to encounter. No white water compares to the Zambezi. Shearwater are some of the original rafting pioneers in Victoria Falls, with a white water history that dates back to 1985, their guides are amongst the best in the business and know the rapids like the back of their hand.

Traditional Afternoon Tea at The Victoria Falls Hotel is served daily and is an institution and a reminder of the elegant era in which the hotel was born. Built by the British in 1904, and one of the oldest hotels in Africa, the Victoria Falls Hotel was originally built as accommodation for workers on the Cape to Cairo railway. Now a luxury hotel, if you can’t stay here then High Tea on the Stanley Terrace with its dramatic views down the gorges to the Falls and the famous bridge, is highly recommended.

Take a Sunset Cruise. A visit to Victoria Falls would not be complete without a river cruise, preferably at sunset, and The River Song is highly recommended.  You’ll be collected from your hotel and taken to the river, where once boarding you’ll travel at a stately speed up the Zambezi River, above the falls, catching glimpses of wildlife as you go – bee-eaters, kingfishers, huge crocodiles and elephants, maybe even a nursery of baby hippos, all the while being plied with cold drinks and tasty snacks by your ever attentive waitress.

Immerse yourself in the world of an elephant by visiting Through the Eyes of an Elephant. If you have ever wondered how an elephant sees, hears, smells and feels the world, or what emotions and intellect we share with these incredible mammals, then this is the experience for you. Learn about the challenges faced by elephants in the wild, and discover some of the unique skills and behaviours that make them the amazing creatures they are. The expert elephant carers will both educate you and allow you to get up close and meet some of the elephants in the orphan herd.

Run by the charity, Zambezi Elephant Welfare and Conservation Trust (ZEWACT), aside from interactions and education, the programme is involved in elephant conflict mitigation, community engagement and various other conservation projects.

Go on a Game Drive through the 56,000 hectare Zambezi National Park, home to elephant, lion, buffalo and leopard. Sable, antelope, eland, giraffe, kudu, waterbuck and impala are also found here in numbers, along with plenty of smaller game and over 400 bird species. Rukoko Safaris offer walking, driving and birding safaris in the national park, as well as fishing expeditions and even day trips into Chobe National Park, across the border in Botswana. Founded by two professional guides, Sam Mushandu and AB Mhlanga, with decades of experience between them, Rukoko Safaris are highly recommended.

Take a tour of the famous Bridge. For a ‘behind the scenes’ look at the famous Victoria Falls Bridge take a guided tour. Even though he never visited the falls and died before construction began, when Cecil Rhodes (instigator of the Cape to Cairo railway project) was presented with proposed plans of the Zambezi River crossing, he drew a line across the Boiling Pot (the point directly below the Falls) and declared that this was where he wanted a bridge. Rhodes envisaged the spray from the falls landing on the trains as they crossed the bridge, and for many years after its completion, trains used to stop for a few minutes in the centre of the bridge, so his dream could be realised.

On your bridge tour you’ll learn about the history of this remarkable structure, from design and prefabrication in England, to construction in Africa. You’ll have a chance to walk the catwalks below the bridge (an area normally closed to the public) and enjoy unique views of the Falls, the Zambezi River and the Batoka Gorge. You might even see someone bungee jump from the platform above you! It’s not a strenuous activity, but not advisable if you are nervous about heights.

With so many places to choose from it’s hard to know were to stay on a visit to Victoria Falls, here’s a few suggestions…

Only 500m from the boundary of the Zambezi National Park, Mbano Manor is a bespoke, all-suite boutique hotel. With 18 suites, all with generous living spaces, private courtyards, wide verandahs, plantation style, beamed, high ceilings and large shutter doors that open out to the leafy four-acre property. We stayed in the presidential Mutota Forest Villa, with an indulgent king-sized bed, private dining room and refreshment area, a vast outdoor terrace, as well as formal and informal lounge areas. Our bathroom was huge, almost the size of the rest of the suite combined – his and hers amenities, a clow foot bath, two indoor showers and a separate dressing room. The bathroom opened onto a private courtyard, complete with outdoor shower.

Mbano Manor is a hidden gem in the hustle and bustle of town. It’s hard to escape the endless helicopter sounds when staying in Victoria Falls, but Mbano Manor is a tranquil place and feel pleasantly removed from all the action that accompanies this tourist filled town. You can dine in your room or at the hotel restaurant, relax by the pool, enjoy spa treatments or a barbeque at your suite, or simply enjoy the peace and quite of the hotel’s gardens.

Heading out into the adjacent Zambezi National Park one afternoon, with Rukoko Safaris, we saw zebra and giraffe, numerous herds of elephants and four side stripped jackals lying in the dirt. The jackals leapt up and sped away, looking sheepishly over their shoulders, like a bunch of teenagers caught in the act of misbehaving. All this before stopping for sundowners along a secluded spot of river, with stunning views over the tiny islands, rocks and rapids.

Back at the hotel and heading back to our villa, after our game drive, a tumble of banded mongoose played outside our room. Seeing us approaching they tripped over one another in their haste to hide. As we sat by our private pool we saw elephant families, complete with babies, slipping in and out of the National Park located across the road, and watched a herd of perhaps 100 buffalo, big and small, sauntering down the road outside the gate.

The welcome and service at Mbano Manor is both professional and extremely friendly. We were welcomed with open arms and really made to feel right at home from the minute we arrived.

Situated along the banks of the Zambezi River, 4km upstream of the Victoria Falls, among towering indigenous trees, The Palm River Hotel has been inspired architecturally by the traditional East-Coast Australian Queenslander style, with the use of timber and corrugated iron, and taking into consideration tropical climatic conditions. A team of Zimbabwean architects and interior designers have taken these principles and, adopting them to local conditions, have created a hotel that is stylish, modern and functional, yet still with a timeless aesthete, and is perfectly suited to the local environment.

The hotel’s uninterrupted river frontage is beautiful, with stunning garden views sweeping down to the Zambezi River. You can stroll along the river bank, watch the water flowing past from the pool and dining areas, and on a clear, quiet day you can hear the thunder of the water pouring over the Falls and see the spray from your room. From our third floor room we were eye level with birds, and watched trumpeter hornbills and shrikes and bulbuls flitting through the trees. A pair of monkeys came to ‘inspect’ us one afternoon, clambering onto our verandah and pressing their faces against the glass doors to see if we were home. Keeping very still we watched while they performed various acrobatic moves on the verandah railings, before a slight movement on my part had them scampering for cover.

After afternoon tea by the river, we were collected from the hotel and taken a short way upstream for a sunset cruise on The River Song. We would later pass the hotel on the water and could see just how well it blended into the environment, and how well the large property was so well hidden amongst the trees.

There’s a shuttle service available into town and to the Falls themselves, so you are never too far from the action, and a dedicated activities desk ensures you can plan your holiday just the way you want it.

Located just 4kms from Victoria Falls is the Victoria Falls Safari Club, situated within the spacious grounds of the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge estate. Built on a plateau that overlooks the Zambezi National Park and with uninterrupted views of the bush and spectacular sunsets, Victoria Falls Safari Club was the perfect place to end our recent Victoria Falls visit.

With 16 luxury Club Rooms and 4 Club Suites, the Safari Club also has a central guest area, with a restaurant and bar, as well as a lounge and a viewing deck, all overlooking a wildlife rich waterhole and the game corridor to the Zambezi River. The focus here is on exclusivity, with butler-style concierge service, fine dining, great views and open plan rooms that face the bushveld and sliding glass doors that open onto a private balcony with uninterrupted views and beautiful sunsets. There’ a two-tiered swimming pool, with a 15m lap pool and sundeck, and a fitness centre should you desire.

The Safari Club has its own Club Lounge, and offers complimentary afternoon tea and pastries, sundowners and canapés and nibbles throughout the day. Dining at the Safari Club is fantastic, combining fine dining with views over the waterhole, so your dinner is almost guaranteed to be accompanied by elephant sightings and if you are lucky, like we were, hyena and leopard too. Other nearby dining options include the MaKuwa-Kuwa restaurant at the Safari Lodge, and the Boma – Dinner and Drum Show.

The Victoria Falls Safari Club is an ideal place to stay, away from the hustle and bustle, yet still be close to the falls (there’s a complimentary shuttle service to the Falls and town). The focus of the lodge is definitely on wildlife, with animals roaming through the grounds and visible from the rooms. The Siduli Hide, beside the waterhole, offers the incredible opportunity to watch wildlife at very close quarters. And don’t miss the opportunity to witness the daily feeding at the ‘vulture restaurant’, where guests can see right up close to these fascinating birds.

Peak Water is March to May, after the rainy season has ended. The spray can be so dense that is quite literally rains down on you, so bring a raincoat and be prepared to get drenched. Medium to high water flow is January-February and June-August, this is one of the best times of year to view the Victoria Falls. Low water season is September to December and is a good time to photograph the Falls with much of the cliff face exposed, the spray is less, as are the visitor numbers.

Tourists from over 65 countries can obtain a KAZA UniVisa which is valid for 30 days and allows you to cross between Zambia and Zimbabwe, so you can visit both sides of the Falls. The UniVisa also allows for day-trips to Botswana for sites including Chobe National Park, provided you return to Zambia or Zimbabwe on the same day.

victoria falls activities

Visiting Victoria Falls

Sitatunga | Encounters with the Amphibious Enigma

The early morning mist hovered over the marshland. The sun began to rise above the tangled, impenetrable reeds, turning the sky from violet and grey to pale pink. The floodplain was below us. As our eyes became accustomed to the dim light, we watched as, one by one, Sitatunga emerged silently from the dense beds of phragmites and papyrus and began grazing in the open.

Spotting Sitatunga at Vivienne’s Hide, Kasanka National Park

<a href="http://www.kasankanationalpark.com/">Kasanka National Park</a>, though one of Zambia’s smallest, is a wildlife paradise with diverse landscapes, from rivers and lakes to wetlands and forests. Here, amidst this tranquil setting, lies Vivienne’s Hide, offering a front-row seat to witness the enchanting spectacle of Sitatunga grazing at sunrise. As early risers, they come alive just after dawn, making it the perfect time to witness their beauty.

The Adaptations of Sitatunga: Amphibious Wonders

Learn about the unique adaptations of Sitatunga that enable them to thrive in their semi-aquatic habitat. Their elongated, widely splayed, banana-shaped hooves allow them to walk almost silently through the water and are perfectly suited to muddy, swampy ground. But when they find themselves on firm terrain, these same hooves can make them rather clumsy. Their shaggy, oily, water-repellent coat is another adaptation to their aquatic lifestyle. Their wedge-shaped and lowered head, coupled with the backward bend of the horns (in males), is ideally suited to easy navigation through dense vegetation. Sitatunga are excellent swimmers, able to move slowly through water for several kilometres. They submerge their entire bodies when swimming to avoid detection from predators, with only their noses and eyes poking above the water.

Secretive Antelope of Africa | Less Known but Fascinating

Despite being common and abundant in African swamps and permanent marshes, Sitatunga is one of the most secretive and least known of Africa’s large fauna. Females are fawn-coloured with vertical white stripes and spots across their rump, providing camouflage in dappled light. Males are larger, chocolate brown, with long, spiralled ivory-tipped horns, a mane, and a white stripe down their spine.

Vera Rduch’s research information has been taken from [Vera Rduch, 2013. Ecology and Population Status of the Puku Antelope (Kobus Vardonii LIVINGSTONE, 1857)

PhD student Vera Rduch conducted her thesis on puku in Kasanka National Park and collected information on the park’s Sitatunga. Sightings of puku and Sitatunga grazing together on the flood plains, combined with camera trap images of them entering woodlands in the late evening during the hot, dry season (Sept–Oct), showed that while Sitatunga tend to graze on young papyrus and reed shoots for the bulk of their diet, they don’t limit themselves to swamp vegetation. In some parks, they have even been recorded feeding on elephant dung, obtaining nutrients from undigested seeds.

Survival Challenges | Threats to Sitatunga

Using faecal analysis, Rduch ascertained that, in Kasanka, crocodiles feed on Sitatunga, which is not surprising given their considerable overlap in habitat. She also found Sitatunga hair in the scat of civet and white-tailed mongooses, who must have fed on Sitatunga carrion as scavengers. Sitatunga don’t only fall victim to natural predators. Their regularly used, well-worn pathways through reeds and papyrus, between feeding and resting areas, make them especially vulnerable to poachers’ snares and hunters with dogs and guns. Sitatunga are prized bush meat. In Zambia, they are afforded some protection because they are classed as a ‘government trophy’, meaning if a poacher is caught with Sitatunga meat, he will get a more severe sentence than if caught with puku or common duiker meat.

Sitatunga breed throughout the year, females usually producing a single offspring after an approximate seven-month gestation period. A calf will weigh between 3.5 and 4 kilograms at birth and potentially double in weight during its first months. After the birth, the female hides her calf on a vegetation platform, secluded in dry reeds for protection. This youngster will stay with its mother, being suckled by her for about six months and learning to navigate the swamp safely, following its mother about, even after she has given birth again. A calf takes time to master the specialised gait of the Sitatunga and will often, in the early months, lose its balance and fall into the water.

Conservation Status and Habitat Challenges

Though classified under the Least Concern category by the International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN), habitat loss is the most severe threat to the species’ survival. Other threats include the increasing loss of wetlands that has led to isolated populations and long-term changes in the water level affecting nearby vegetation and, consequently, their diet. In Zambia, vast areas of the Bangweulu and Busanga swamps are burnt yearly, placing animals like the Sitatunga at grave risk.

A Glorious Sunset and Farewell to Sitatunga

At the end of the day, we returned to Vivienne’s Hide as the sun began to sink in the sky and were rewarded with a spectacular sunset tinting the floodplain orange and scarlet. The grazing Sitatunga glowed golden in the fading light. We stayed until we could see them no longer, and as the moon rose, climbed down the ladder and left them in peace.

1. Sitatunga or marshbuck get their scientific name, Tragelaphus spekii, from John Hanning Speke, the English explorer who described them in 1863. Speke first observed the Sitatunga at “Little Windermere,” now Lake Lwelo in Tanzania.

2. Sitatunga stand between 75 and 100cm tall and weigh between 50 and 125kg.

3. Researchers estimate that the global population of Sitatunga is somewhere around 170,000. They are found in more than 25 African countries, with almost 40% living in protected wilderness areas.

4. Sitatunga have an unusual leg length, often looking hunched over because their rear legs are much longer than their front legs. This difference in leg length helps them to balance better in marshy areas. Another interesting fact about Sitatunga legs is that their pasterns (the part of the leg just above the hoof) are flexible. This unusual leg construction makes it easy for Sitatunga to run on damp surfaces.

5. The average lifespan for a Sitatunga in the wild is 12 years (and up to 22 years in captivity). Their age can often be told by looking at the colour of their coat. As they age, their coats turn from a light russet brown to a darker greyish-brown colour.

6. Bushbuck and Sitatunga are genetically similar enough to hybridise. Hybrids between bongo and Sitatunga have also proved to be fertile.

Sitatunga

Sunrise, Swamps, and Sitatunga | The Secretive Antelope of Kasanka

The Magnificent Zambezi River and Victoria Falls

Indulging in Culinary Delights Along the Zambezi River

When embarking on a journey, we tend to focus on the sights, activities, and encounters that await us, but one aspect that shouldn’t be overlooked is the food. Food and travel are intrinsically linked, as culinary experiences have the power to capture moments in time and create enduring memories.  When exploring new destinations, tracking down a memorable meal can be just as important as seeing the sights. In Livingstone and Victoria Falls, this connection between food and travel comes to life.

The Zambezi River is Southern Africa’s ‘River of Life’. It flows 2,574km from its source in Zambia, through Angola, Botswana and Zimbabwe, to Mozambique, before ultimately emptying into the Indian Ocean. About 1,200km into its journey, the Zambezi grows into a great watercourse measuring almost 2km wide. It’s at this juncture that the river reaches the Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Twice as wide and twice as deep as Niagara Falls, Victoria Falls spans the width of the Zambezi River and sees the river dramatically tumbling and cascading over a sheer precipice, plunging into the gorge 108m below.

The River Club: A Timeless Oasis on the Zambezi River

Just 18km upstream of the Falls is The River Club, with a location that’s hard to beat. Perched on a cliff right on the edge of the Zambezi, the lodge overlooks a sweeping bend in the river, complete with pods of hippos, tiny islands, sandbanks, reeds and tall grasses, and across into the Zambezi National Park on the other side of the water.  

Arriving at The River Club is like stepping back in time. The centre of the lodge is a restored 1940s home with a lounge, dining room, billiard room and library, all furnished with a fascinating collection of memorabilia. With magnificent trees overhead, and extensive grounds to explore, the lodge is an oasis after the adventures on offer at the Falls.

Uncovering Livingstone’s Jewish History

A little-known part of Zambia’s history is that it was once home to one of the oldest Jewish settlements in Africa. Although Zambia’s Jewish population was always small, around 1,200 at its peak, its members included significant figures in Zambia’s economic and political life. Travellers to Livingstone and Victoria Falls can explore the Jewish history of the area by visiting the small but interesting Jewish Museum, housed on the grounds of the somewhat shambolic railway museum. The River Club itself caters to Jewish guests with two separate dedicated kosher kitchens, and they regularly host Jewish guests over Shabbat, so they are well versed on what is required to make Jewish guests feel at home.

If you are on a food journey in Livingstone and want to combine it with a little adventure, visit the Elephant Café for a real ‘taste of the wild’. Guests staying at The River Club for four nights or more have the opportunity to visit the restaurant, where you are surrounded by elephants you can literally touch.

A Memorable Dining Experience Surrounded by Elephants

A visit to the Elephant Café combines three great experiences. You’ll begin with a jet boat ride on the Zambezi to your destination, where you’ll be met by some of the resident orphaned and rescued elephants (and some younger ones born at the sanctuary) who call this place home. You’ll then learn about the herd and the history of the individual elephants and have an opportunity to interact with and feed them before proceeding into the restaurant for a leisurely, delicious lunch.

Exquisite Cuisine at the Award-Winning Elephant Café

The award-winning Elephant Café is small, seating only 24 guests and showcasing fresh, locally sourced organic ingredients, strongly focusing on wild edibles. The menu changes seasonally depending on what is available. A typical menu includes a delicious champagne cocktail before moving on to a Tilapia Ceviche, followed by a Sindambi Sage-glazed Roasted Pork Belly with Star Anise, and finishing off with a delicious Meringue and Muchingachinga Mess with Lavender Flowers—an amazing meal right on the banks of the Zambezi.

If I’ve whet your appetite for a taste of Livingstone, let me leave you with some recipes to inspire you to visit.

(Bunny Chow is a South African street food dish consisting of a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with curry. It originated among the Indian community in Durban, a coastal town in South Africa. This recipe is vegan, vegetarian and kosher)

Recipe: The Elephant Café’s Mongongo Nut Florentines

(Mongongo nuts come from the wild mongongo or manketti tree and, when cooked, taste similar to roasted cashews)

Food and travel intertwine to create extraordinary experiences and cherished memories. Livingstone and Victoria Falls perfectly blend stunning natural wonders and culinary delights. Immerse yourself in the rich history, indulge in unforgettable meals, and explore the region’s unique flavours. Whether you’re a food enthusiast or an adventurous traveller, a journey to Livingstone and Victoria Falls will leave you with a treasure trove of culinary souvenirs to take home. Start planning your culinary expedition and embrace the magic of food and travel.

Livingstone and the Victoria Falls

Livingstone and Victoria Falls | A Taste for Travel

The Zambezi River passes through several countries and countless wonderful places on its journey from source to sea. Emerging from the ground as a tiny bubbling spring in north-western Zambia, the river passes through eastern Angola, along Namibia’s north-eastern border and the northern border of Botswana, before forming the boundary between Zambia and Zimbabwe, flowing across Mozambique and ultimately emptying into the Indian Ocean.

Mention the Zambezi and one of the first thing that comes to most people’s minds is the Victoria Falls, one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls. About 1,200km into its journey, the Zambezi grows to a great water course, almost 2km wide and it is here that the river reaches the Victoria Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Twice as wide and twice as deep as Niagara Falls, Victoria Falls spans the width of the Zambezi River, and sees the river cascading over a sheer precipice, plunging 108m into the gorge below. In the height of the rainy season the spray from the Falls can rise 400m into the air and be seen from up to 48km away, giving rise to the traditional Zambian name, Mosi-oa-Tunya, or “the smoke that thunders.” The sheer scale and power of the falls never cease to awe and astound. This a must visit destination.

Visit the Zambian side of the Victoria Falls and you’ll meander the various paths, through the rainforest, over the Knife-edge Bridge (with its spectacular views of the eastern cataract, main falls and down the gorge), and look across at the wide, basalt cliff over which the falls thunder. Bring, hire or borrow a raincoat, because in peak season you’ll find yourself getting soaking wet as you duck in and out of the mist-soaked rainforest at the 13 different viewpoints, braving the spray to admire the stunning views.

Livingstone, and the northern banks of the Zambezi, once the ‘poor relation’ in a Victoria Falls ‘experience’, has undergone a remarkable transformation in recent years, and is now home to some fantastic activities to do and some truly sophisticated and spectacular places to stay.

Spend a day rafting with Bundu Adventures, down what is quite probably the wildest commercial white-water in the world. A rafting adventure on the Zambezi River is definitely an adrenaline rush not to be missed. Downstream of the Victoria Falls, the Zambezi River is a kilometres long stretch of deep, zigzagging, torturous channels, and the incredible volume of water guarantees an exhilarating day of white-water. When, at a pre-departure briefing, you hear the rapids have names like ‘The Terminator’, ‘Oblivion’ and ‘Gnashing Jaws of Death’, you have an inkling of what lies ahead! Your day starts with a hike down to the ‘Boiling Pot,’ a massive whirlpool at the base of the Victoria Falls where you clamber aboard your raft and set off.  Although stretches of the route are classed a high-octane Grade 5, there are several areas of scenic, calm water where you get the chance to swim alongside the raft for stretches of the river. The whole day was an unbelievable experience and definitely worth the steep hike out of the Batoka Gorge at the end of the day. Good fitness levels are essential.

A sunset cruise is an essential part of the Victoria Falls experience. We chose The African Queen, and despite the fact that the sun was hiding behind some clouds as we set off and it didn’t look like we were destined to get a very photogenic sunset, we enjoyed ourselves immensely. Catching glimpses of hippos, crocs and a myriad of birds we headed upstream and, just in the nick of time, the clouds cleared and we got our sunset after all.

If taking to the air in something resembling a couple of garden chairs, attached to a beach umbrella, with a lawnmower engine strapped to the back, is your cup of tea, then microlighting is definitely for you! Seriously though, while a microlight might appear as fragile as a dragonfly, it’s much sturdier than it looks and, in the hands of the passionate and experienced pilots, it is one of the most breath-taking ways to see the one of the seven natural wonders of the world. This is definitely an activity for the adrenaline seekers.

If the microlight sounds a little too adventurous, then why not opt for a spectacular helicopter flight over the falls. Known as the ‘Flight of Angels’, this thrilling flight over the Victoria Falls is a definite bucket-list activity. The views are breath-taking and give an entirely new perspective to the landscape below. You have a bird’s eye view of elephants crossing the river, pods of hippos congregating and flying over the Mosi oa Tunya National Park you’ll look directly down on its wildlife. If you opt for the slightly longer flight, it includes a dramatic swoop down into the Batoka Gorge, where you’ll find yourself flying just above the water, shadowing the rapids, before a stunning ascent out of the gorge and back to the airstrip.

If you’d prefer to ease yourself gracefully into the ‘adrenaline business’, then sign up for an afternoon’s privately guided canoeing safari on the Zambezi, upstream of the Falls. Paddling between the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park on the Zambian side and the Zambezi Game Park on the Zimbabwean side, you’ll glide past elephants, pods of hippos and a great selection of birdlife. And, as you’re heading downstream, going with the flow of the river, you aren’t even required to paddle much!

The 66km² Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, home not only to Cape buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, Angolan giraffe, elephants, various antelope, warthog and more, but also home to 10 endangered white rhino, two of whom are babies. You can combine a game drive through this tiny park with the unique opportunity to get up close on foot to a few of the white rhino. After only a short search, we found four of them, and were able to approach pretty close. Their sheer size, and total indifference to us, was amazing. Your lodge can arrange this activity for you.

The Royal Livingstone Express is a memorable and different experience; a trip back in time to the luxury and grandeur of the bygone era of steam trains. An actual red carpet welcomes awaits as you mount the stairs to the train, with a glass of wine in hand. Wander through the fabulously restored and renovated carriages to the elegant lounge car. As the train sets off you nibble on smoked salmon canapés. Meanwhile the train makes its way to the Victoria Falls Bridge, where you alight to view the falls, and those who were interested can visit the driver in his compartment to learn a little more about the inner workings of the engine itself. Boarding the train again, you move into the dining car and are treated to a delicious five course dinner, as the train gathers speed and heads off into the night.

For a real ‘taste of the wild, a visit to the Elephant Café combines three great experiences. You’ll begin with a 30min jetboat journey up the Zambezi to your destination, 10km upstream of the Victoria Falls, where you’re met by some of the resident orphaned and rescued elephants (and some younger ones born at the sanctuary) who call this place home. You’ll an opportunity to interact with and feed the elephants, before proceeding into the restaurant for a delicious lunch.

The award-winning Elephant Café is small, seating only 24 guests, and showcasing fresh, locally sourced organic ingredients, with a strong focus on wild edibles. The menu changes seasonally dependant on what is available. We had a fantastic meal. Starting off with a delicious champagne cocktail, before moving on to a Tilapia Ceviche, followed by a Sindambi Sage-glazed Roasted Pork Belly with Star Anise, and finishing off with a delicious Meringue &amp; Machinating Mess with Lavender Flowers. An amazing meal, right on the banks of the Zambezi.

Mukwa River Lodge, 30km upstream of the Falls, it the newest lodge on this part of the river. Built to blend in with the natural surroundings, the rooms of this seven suite, luxury boutique hotel open out over the river, giving the feeling of hovering over the water. Beautiful pieces of antique furniture and artwork, Indian daybeds, bathrooms with indoor and outdoor showers and bathtubs perfect for relaxing in, private plunge pools for every room. Understated luxury and a wonderful welcoming team, all combine to enhance your visit to this special part of the Zambezi.

After a boat ride on the river, we sat by the water’s edge watching the sun go down. As the sun disappeared and the air got chillier, we moved to the fire pit, watching the flames dancing in the grate, glass of wine in hand as we waited for dinner. Food is a speciality at Mukwa, and we were in for a treat. Mushroom Risotto, Slow Roasted Pork Belly, and for dessert, a sublime dark chocolate torte with Amarula ice-cream.

At night we slept with our doors open, listening to the sounds of the bush. Baboons shouted in the tree tops in the Zambezi National Park, on the other side of the river. Their shrieking grew louder and more panicked. We imagined a leopard was on the prowl. Later we heard the woops and calls of a hyena, and guessed the leopard had been successful and that the hyena was hoping for some scraps. Waking in the early morning, we lay in bed and watched the mist rising off the water, like dragon’s breath as we listened to the dawn chorus of bird calls. A very special place in a fantastic location.

Overlooking tiny islands in the Zambezi, Toka Leya is situated in Zambia’s Mosi- oa-Tunya National Park, a short drive from Livingstone and the Victoria Falls. Toka Leya’s twelve spacious, en-suite safari suites, all tucked into riverine forest, have expansive decks and dramatic views of the river and beyond. The camp has been built around the towering trees, and winding wooden walkways link the rooms with the common area. Resident bushbuck wander past the rooms and under the walkways, playful monkeys keep and eye on the guests from the trees above, hippos come ashore to graze at night, and wildlife regularly wander past, heading to the water to drink.

In the communal area there’s an infinity pool, a lounge area, a fire pit for night-time gatherings, pizza oven, and a sundeck for the perfect sundowners. We sat with our gin and tonics, and watched as a pair of kingfishers flitted from tree to tree, tilting their heads from side to side watching us impassively. There also a small gym and a spa, where a massage accompanied by the sound of the running water was bliss.

Sunset boat cruises yielded hippos, crocs, elephants and various other wildlife, as well as a dazzling array of birds, including such specials as an African finfoot, an African skimmer, half-collared kingfishers, and rock pratincoles. We set aside a whole afternoon to search for a spend time with the white rhino inside the National Park, but found them just a couple of kilometres from the camp!

Toka Leya is a really special place. From some of the friendliest of staff I’ve met in a lodge, to the comfort, privacy and sense of seclusion that being here give you, and the incredible surroundings and feeling of being immersed in nature.

The River Club’s location is hard to beat, perched on a cliff right on the edge of the Zambezi River with all 11 suites overlooking a sweeping bend in the river complete with islands, sandbanks, reeds and tall grasses, and across into the Zambezi National Park on the other side. Situated 20 kilometres upstream from the town of Livingstone and the Victoria Falls, arriving at the River Club, one of the few privately owned lodges in the area, is like stepping back in time to the heydays of exploration in Africa. The centre of the lodge is a restored 1940’s homestead, with a comfortable lounge, dining room and library, home to a fascinating collection of memorabilia. The owner himself is a remarkable source of knowledge about the history of the area, and Zambia as a whole.